Back in November I promised to put a few words together about Dave. It’s taken a while to get to this point as I wasn’t sure what form it should take. In the end I decided I would write about the Mont Blanc trip as it was my privilege to reach the summit of Western Europe’s highest mountain alongside Dave. It might get a bit boring for those not fussed by climbing, but I wanted to document that occasion as I remember it.

 

 I was (re-)introduced to walking by Chris Nuttall in the mid-nineties and was soon introduced to Dave on one of our frequent trips to Cumbria. Very quickly I realised just how good Dave was on the mountains during scrambles up routes like Pinnacle Ridge and the Cneifion Arete. In addition to his skill on the hills he had a laid-back and enjoyable attitude to life. We used to chat about anything, but we had particular common ground with football and rock music. Although Dave was a Man Utd. fan he would take genuine interest in my team (Everton) despite the frequent ‘gubbings’ handed out to the Blues.

 

When the group decided to tackle Mont Blanc I was a bit wary due to my lack of genuine rock climbing experience, but everyone re-assured me that it would be well within my capabilities. I managed to sort out flights to Geneva from Liverpool and so Chris, Dave and I flew out to be met in Chamonix by Steve Morgan and Jean-Paul Camus. (I managed to leave my wallet at home but thankfully that’s another story as Steve was able to lend me some cash!)

 

 The first few days over in Chamonix were superb as we were put through our paces by some top-notch instructors from Jagged Globe. One day we were due to get some overnight acclimatisation at the Albert Premier refuge high in the Alps next to the Glacier du Tour. The idea was to rest and then summit the Aiguille du Tour (3542m) the next morning. An incoming weather front forced the JG guides to change their minds and after a very quick lunch we were off up the mountain.

 I had been teamed up with Chris, Dave and John (the guide) and we set off at a good pace. We eventually got to the peak at the same time as another party from our group. With the top crawling with people I manage to take a couple of photos, one of which appears to have become an iconic image of Dave and Chris together (have a look at the photo gallery and you’ll soon guess which one).

 

 Back in Chamonix the preparations for the attempt on Mont Blanc began. Some new bits of kit were bought or rented and Dave stocked up on his favourite mountain food – Mars bars .... dozens of them. The guides had also been checking out everyone and had worked out a set of teams based on one guide to every two of us. I got a bit of a shock when I was asked to partner Dave along with Andy Owen as our guide. Chris and Dave had been climbing partners for what seemed like donkey’s years and I knew that it had always been the dream for these two to nail the summit together. Chris was very quick to point out that it had been a fair choice after the day on the Aiguille du Tour, but I still feel a bit sheepish about it to this day.

 

 With regards to the first night on Mont Blanc I won’t go into the shenanigans in the Tete Rousse refuge as Chris summed it up wonderfully in his speech. We started off the next day with the idea being to reach the Gouter hut for another overnight stay before going for the summit. Things were certainly a bit fraught by the morning. As well as the 3 a.m. fight, some kit had been stolen (my gaiters and J-P’s helmet) and Jean-Paul’s climbing partner had messed up big style by ‘forgetting’ his over-trousers.

 We were trying to take on & carry plenty of water and we were tired due to a poor night’s sleep and the next stage included crossing the Grand Couloir, a notoriously dangerous spot on the mountain. We crossed the Couloir and then climbed the adjoining ridge. At the Gouter refuge we thought we would get the chance to relax. We thought wrong. An incoming weather front forced the JG guides to change their minds and after a very quick lunch, we were off up the mountain (now that sounds familiar).

 

  We were told that the weather was going to get pretty bad and it was “now or never” as to whether we would get to the top. The next few hours were tough. Above 4000 metres I was beginning to find it tough due to the altitude and indigestion. But ahead of me Dave kept going and going. I have no doubt that he and Andy got me to the top of Mont Blanc that day. We were the first of the Jagged Globe group to get to the top and actually got a view over the Alps into Italy before the weather started to turn. Andy took a photo of us and then Dave passed me his camera. He dug out a snapshot of his little lad Daniel and held it up with pride. A truly special moment.

 

 The return to the Gouter refuge was just as hard. Later on we heard that everyone had their own epic stories from that day (especially Chris & Steve), but towards the end of that afternoon all I was aware of was the three of us trying to get back down. The weather front was like an ice blizzard at that altitude and Dave even had an icicle on the end of his nose which had to be removed before frostbite set in. Dave had effectively dragged me to the top and now it was my turn as I had to help get him off as he had pretty much burned up all his energy going up. I was able to find some unfrozen water in my pack which I passed on to him before we finally got back to the hut. (If you look at the photo gallery there is one entitled 'three cold monkeys' with Andy, Dave and myself encrusted in snow & ice.)

 

 Jean-Paul was there to greet us with a big hug, although he was naturally disappointed not to have made it to the top himself. We got out of the frozen kit and Dave quickly crashed out into a heavy & fully deserved sleep. I got fed and watered and waited with everyone else to watch for the others as they all eventually came off the mountain safely. Our final day saw everyone descend to Chamonix for hot showers and hot food. In fact most of us could not stop eating and we had two three-course meals in the space of a few hours. I still cannot get over how much weight we lost. We had dug heavily into our reserves and I will always remember Dave and myself coming out with loads of cold sores afterwards as our bodies had no energy left!

 

 The trip to Mont Blanc with the ‘band of brothers’ is something I will always look back on with a mixture of joy and incredulity. The fact I got to the summit with Dave is something that fills me with immense pride. 

 

 I’ll always be looking out for him on the mountains.

 

 With a shot of malt in my hand I toast Dave Morris …. ‘No Fear’.

 

 Bruce Goodridge March 2008